Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Talamanca Trout


Fly fishing in the Talamanca Mountains.

G. Martin Lively

A gin clear creek tumbles over polished boulders forming small, deep pools now and then. In the shadows of each such quiet place can be seen finning forms waiting for the stream to deliver delicious morsels. If it weren't for the cloud forest lining the banks and the brilliant red, orange and yellow bromeliads in bloom one would think they were in Colorado or Northern California, but the stream is the Rio Savegre near the town of San Gerardo de Dota, about 80 kilometers south of San Jose, Costa Rica.

My first Central American trout fell for a Sierra King, a dry fly imitating the ubiquitous deer fly or house fly. Eight thick inches with an oversized head and kyped jaw it was a male rainbow in full spawning colors. Brilliant as any crown jewel he was probably, like me, a Californian. Most rainbows around the world are from the first hatchery on the McCloud River above Lake Shasta and I read somewhere that these Tico Trout started out from there too. Originally planted by sportsman they were soon netted from the streams for pond raising and sale to fancy San Jose restaurants and markets. Many escaped back into the flowing water feeding their fattening pens and now can be found in the Rio Toro Amarillo, the Rio Macho and the upper reaches of many famous white water canoe rivers.

I didn't want to kill him, but I did want Jean to see him so I threaded a thin, hooked branch through his gills and laid him on the ferns beside me while I tried for a larger relative. Mistake! Concentrating on my casting I failed to notice the tiny dog that had followed me down from the hotel as it ate my prize. Well, some others came to net that morning and I did keep one for show and tell at breakfast, but none were as pretty as the
puppy's breakfast.

The above trip was twenty years ago in 1988 and I have been back several times since then, and plan to go again soon. It has become easier. The Savegre Mountain Hotel now provides stream access, fishing equipment and a guide for two for $60. See http://www.savegre.co.cr/indexeng.html on the net, or call Tel: +506-4740-1028